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20 D. APPLETON AND COMPANY'S LIST
(Bxm Igttilar. THE MOTHER'S RECOMPENSE.
A Story. \2mo. Paper cover ; 50 cents; cloth, 75 cents.
" It is a fragrant offering to the cause of domestic virtue and happiness."— Albany Atlaa
" We have read this with an intensity ef interest seldom awakened in us by a work of Ra- tion " — Newark Advertiser.
'• We commend the work to all as eminently calculated to do good." — Bangor Whig.
" In the domestic circle, and by all our fair readers, this excellent story will meet with ■ cfrdial welcome." — Home journal.
<8mt Slgtnlar. WOMAN'S FRIENDSHIP.
A Story of Domestic Life. 12 mo. Cloth, 75 cents ; paper 50 cts.
" This work should find a welcome in every family circle, where it is so well calculated to do good." — Commercial Advertiser.
" The book abounds with grace and feeling." — Albany Spectator.
"The style of this production closely resembles that of Miss Edsewoith. It is one of those vivid pictures of every day life that never fails to please." — N. O. True Delta.
§mn Slgttilar. THE VALE OF CEDARS ;
Or the Martyr. A Story of Spain in the Fifteenth Century. l2mo. Paper cover, 50 cents ; cloth, 75 cents.
"The grace and vigor of the style, the masterly manner in which the details of the story are managed, and its thrilling interest, render the book one of the most absorbing that we have read for some time." — Newark Daily Advertiser.
" The styie is elegantly simple, and the moral lessons useful and striking."— Commercial A Ivertiser.
" Her stories are not only artistically beautiful, but more than beautiful for their pure mor& culcations." — Syracuse Journal.
<&un Slgtular. THE WOMEN OF ISRAEL.
Two volumes \2mo. Paper cover, $1 ; cloth, $1 50.
** By no writer have the characters of the celebrated Women of Israel been so correctly appreciated, or eloquently delineated. Those high attainments of piety, those graces oi spirit. which have placed them in the rank of examples for all subsequent generations, are si»jeai before us with a geniality of spirit and a Deauty of styie which will secure the warmest ad- miration; at the same time their weaknesses and errors are not overlooked or excused," - Courier $ Inquirer.
OF THEIR RECENT PUBLICATIONS. 17
511ms Imjrr. THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE,
Or Menegerie. Comprising nearly One Thousand Receipts, for the economical and judicious Preparation of every Meal of the Day. with those of tlie Nursery and Sick Room^ and Minute Directions for Family Management i?i all its Branches. II lustrated with Engravings. Edited by an American House keeper. \2?no. Cloth. 81 ; paper ^ 75 cents.
" This book we commend as the best manual of the art of cooking that we know of in the English language.'''— Tribune.
" No young housekeeper should be without this admirable book. It contains every thing that is necessary to be known, for the economic and judicious preparation of the table, together with minute di/ections for family management in all its branches. By its aid, the young housekeeper who, for the first time, assumes the important duties of her station, can speedily render herself as capable and expert, as those who have had years of experience. The work is from the pen of a master in his art, and the value of the receipts are stamped by the reputation of then Author. "—Journal of Commerce.
WOMAN IN AMERICA,
Her Work and Her Reward. \2mo. Paper cover ^ 38 cents; clothe 63 cents.
" We nail with pleasure the appearance of any thing which is destined to teach woman the functiDns of her sacred mission, and which rightly shows her the tremendous influence she is exerting upon the moral destiny of the world. It is for such reasons that we thank Miss Mcintosh for her ' Woman in America.' She has written a clever book, containing much good * word and truth,' many valuable thoughts and reflections, which ought to be carefully consid- ered by every American lady. With a' keen sense of the present demoralized condition of so- ciety, she faithfully endeavors to show woman her duty as a reformer, a wise meliorator ; she would have her know that she has a great work to perform, and that in the ; good time coming,' her sex will receive a reward of praise and glory unspeakably great. " — Protestant Churchman.
ISilltittit /nrniss.
THE OLD WORLD, OR SCENES AND CITIES IN FOREIGN LANDS.
Accompanied with a Map. and Illustrations. \2?no. SI 25.
"It is written without pretension, but in an agreeable style, and leaves upon the mind of its reader many agreeable pictures of foreign life and institutions." — Evening Post.
"It is rare^to find a volume of more raciness of style and agreeableness of substance."— N. O. Presbyterian.
" His style is pleasant and lively, and his recitals brief and full of humor. Those who dis- like the dull details of minute descriptions will find this volume suited to their taste."— Balti* more American.
THE
MODERN HOUSEWIFE
OR, ifSk "SBI %|
«i2k ^Qr ^^ 4ffi jEa 3
COMPRISING
NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS,
FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS
PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAT,
WITH THOSE OF
THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM,
AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
illustrated toft!) Hnflrabfnjja.
BY
ALEXIS SOYER,
AUTHOR OF "THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.*
EDITED BY AN AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER.
NEW-YORK :
D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY.
1851.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by
D. APPLETON & COMPANY,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New- York.
PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.
In adapting M. Soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of American families, I have not presumed to amend, or attempted to improve upon the text of so accomplished a master of the art, which may with entire propriety be called the " preserva- tive of all arts." All that I have ventured to do has been to make a verbal correction here and there, necessary to render the meaning of the author more plain ; to erase certain direc- tions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown in the new world ; and to omit the purely local information, and scraps of history, which only increased the cost and bulk of the book, without, in any way, adding to its value.
Except in one instance, nothing has been added ; for the ob- ject in republishing the Menagere, was to furnish a new and valuable work on the preparation of food, which should contain important receipts hitherto unknown. Every country must have its indigenous dishes, and it is to be presumed that every American housekeeper likely to profit by M. Soyer's receipts, will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many excel- lent dishes peculiar to the United States.
It is a vulgar error to suppose that French cookery is more costly and highly flavored than English ; an examination of the Menagere will abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact, and that M. Soyer's system, which has rendered him famous in
IV PREFACE.
Europe, is not only simple and economical, but the best adapted to insuring the enjoyment of health, the elevation of the mental faculties, and converting the daily necessity of eating into a source of daily enjoyment. M. Soyer's great work, The Gas- tronomic Regenerator, was prepared for the highest classes of English society, and public festivals ; but the Menage re is adapted to the wants and habits of the middle classes, and, as presented in the present edition, calculated for the use of the great bulk of American families.
M. Soyer is the good genius of the kitchen ; although he is the renowned chef of one of the most sumptuous of the Lon- don Club Houses, and the pet of aristocratic feeders, he has labored continually to elevate the mind, and better the condi- tion of the poor by instructing them in the art of obtaining the greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from their food. The dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of M. Soyer are not less needed in the United States than in England ; but for different reasons. Happily, our countrymen do not sutler for lack of raw materials, so much as for lack of cooks ; and, in the Modern Housewife of M. Soyer, our housekeepers will find a reliable guide and an invaluable friend.
New Yo-k, December, 1849.
CONTENTS.
PAGl INTRODUCTION,
DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER FRIEND
AND VISITOR, 1
LETTER NO. I., 5
LETTER NO. II., 6
BREAKFASTS, 7
FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS, 8
LETTER NO. III., . .... 26
EARLY LUNCHEONS, 27
LETTER NO. IV., 27
THE NURSERY DINNER, 28
LETTER NO. V., . . ib.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS, 33
PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS, •••••••• 47
POULTRY FOR INVALIDS, . 53
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE, ........ 55
LETTER NO. VI., ib.
IETTER NO. VII., 56
LETTER NO. VIII., 57
LETTER NO. IX., .58
LETTER NO. X., ib.
LETTER NO. XL, ib.
ROASTING, 59
BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60
FRYING, 61
SAUTEING, 62
BROILING, ........... 63
SAUCES, - 64
soups, 75
fish, 93
fish sauces, hi
VI CONTENTS.
PAGE REMOVES, 117
LETTER NO. XII., 120
POULTRY, 143
FLAXCS, 158
ENTREES, OR MADE DISHES, . . , . . . . .158
LETTER NO. XIII., 178
LETTER NO. XIV., 181
DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB, 184
EGGS, 21 G
GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, « .219
ENTREES OF GAME, 220
ROASTS SECOND COURSE, 227
SAVORY DISHES 234
LETTER NO. XV.., 244
SHELL-FISH, 250
VEGETABLES, 253
OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268
JELLIES, 286
PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291
PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293
PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294
REMOVES SECOND COURSE, 296
SOUFFLE, 299
DESSERT, 305
LETTER NO. XVI., lb.
COMPOTE, 307
COMPOTES Of FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, WO
SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, .321
LETTER NO. XVIL,
LETTER NO. XVIIL, 332
BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, lb.
LETTER NO. XIX., 334
CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, 336
BILLS OF FARE,
339
LETTER NO. XX. A NEW ALIMENT, 345
CARVING, 34 6
LETTER NO. XXI. THE SEPTUAGENARLAN EPICURE, . . . . 8 1 B
INDEX,
351
INTRODUCTION.
In the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B and
Mrs. L , and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains the
motive of the work ; and, in a natural manner introduces the subject. — Ed
DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER
FRIEND AND VISITOR.
Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fort- night at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered some- what of an epicure, as is likewise my husband ; but, of course our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accord ingly..
Mrs. B. Well, so must we ; and I assure you that, during the first few years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flat- tered me with the appellation of the " Model Housekeeper," and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any friends
INTRODUCTION.
should come in by accident or on business, they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without ex- travagance, as my husband is well convinced ; for when we dine with any acquaintance of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management ; for though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time ; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food, — a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and every one wTho partakes of it will enjoy it.
Mrs. L. Nothing more true !
Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable extravagance.
" Extravagance !" exclaimed Mr. B., " if you have a few min- utes to spare, I will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to begin ; what sum should you sup- pose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider so extravagant ? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men em- ployed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which, of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or twice a-week." — " Well, I do not know," answered our friend ; " but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my ex- penses for housekeeping are never less than £ per
annum." — " Less than what V exclaimed Mr. B. ; " why, my
INTRODUCTION. 8
dear friend, you must be mistaken ;" at the same time ringing the bell. " I wish I were, with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room ; " Jane," said Mr. B., " ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes ; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doc- tor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the time. " Well," said his friend, " there is a wife for you ; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen stairs." " Now !" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure,
which was £ . " No ! no ! that is impossible," replied the
other. " But," said Mr B., " there it is in black and white." " Why, good heavens I" exclaimed he, " without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, " So I should imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days when we were on a visit to your house ; therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the ac- count for the closing year just made up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to £50 or £60 more." " So, so," replied the other, " that is an increase ;" — " Let it be so," said Mr. B. ; " but you must remember that we are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we increase our comforts ; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for the greater part of it."
Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain the matter ; but here comes your hus- band, who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets.
INTRODUCTION.
Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will allow me.
Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam ; in my wife, withe ut flattering her too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise, Mrs. B. retired, saying, u How foolish you talk, Richard") ; she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather profi- cient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering house- hold knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano ; that is the only secret, dear madam ; and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity, by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position for a kingdom ; " Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we then parted.
I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband ; for nothing, you are well aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves ; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping.
I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway ; allow me to see you safe to the station ; you will not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up.
About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was
INTRODUCTION. 5
seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible the economic management of Mrs. B. ; but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice : she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter : —
From Mrs. L to Mrs. B .
Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849.
My dear Hortense, — Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months ; but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly ; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watch- ing closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense : and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare. " "Well, sir," I will suppose she said, " what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons ; we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) " A very excellent notion that, Cook ; nothing can be better than a good goose :" was no doubt, my husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it.
"Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amal- gamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the sage and onions ; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple- sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascend- ing from the grating over the kitchen window. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite a reform in my little estab- lishment, and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recom- mended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education ; and, for my part, I have
INTRODUCTION.
come to the determination of adopting your system of management as closely as possible ; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice, it will be totally impossible ; therefore I beg to pro- pose (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you ; even how to make toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, 01 course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families and friends.
Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your de- cision upon this important and domestic subject.
Yours very sincerely,
ELOISE.
From Mrs. B , in reply.
Bifrons Villa ; Jan. 3d, 1849. My dear Eloise, — In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful ; but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only ? why not go through the different meals of the day ? that is, after breakfast, the luncheon ; then the nursery-dinner at One ; and here it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids ; even our servants' dinners and teas ; then the early din- ner at two or three for people in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and even suppers for a small ball or evening party ; but all on a moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere.
To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first receipt, How to make Toast.
BREAKFASTS.
When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of whom breakfasted together, the three young
men in the shop, Mr. B , and myself. The cloth was
laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely ; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time, the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half- penny upon any one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness. Such was always my plan when in business ; for you must know as well as myself, it is not only the expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that not less fhan H\re pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty.
Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the mate- rials (which I always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of eveiy description of articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table.
BREAKFASTS.
FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS.
Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles. E\ ery preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care, and expe- rience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables, there are none more common than poor toast. — Ed.
1. Toast. — Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness (I gen- erally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast, being lon- ger in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste the bread) ; contrive to have rather a clear fire ; place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another minute, by which time the bread will be thor- oughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting the other side in the same manner ; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole ; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you will find a great im- provement upon the old system, as often in cutting through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish.
jST.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality of the
BREAKFASTS. 9
toast ; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter.
All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier.
Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of the loaf that have become too diy to be eaten as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them, I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their ever being eaten after.
2. Dry Toast. — Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve ; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one piece resting against another ; any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating.
3. To toast Muffins (for Receipt, see No. 6.) — Just open, half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the cen- tre, with a knife, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when again turn it to toast the other side ; when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer of but- ter on each side, close them together ; lay them upon a plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately, and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate ; when well prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a trifling expense.
4. To toast Crumpets. — Crumpets stand lower in the gen- eral estimation of the public, probably from not being so dis- tingue, and having the misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins ; but, for all that, the poor ought never to be for- gotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though they are not 1*
10 BREAKFASTS.
bad after having been made three or four days ; toast them by warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather soft butter lightly upon each side ; cut in halves with a sharp knife, and serve ; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish ; some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick.
5. To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread. — Put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make a hole in the cen- tre, in which put three parts of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place for another hour ; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the breakfast-table.
6. To make Muffins. — Mix a quart of warm water in which you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours, then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them remain in a warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot ; have a round piece of iron ; place on the fire to get hot ; set the muffins upon it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set, when they are done ; they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter.
BREAKFASTS. 1 1
7. To make Crumpets, — Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter, with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours longer ; have the muffin- stove hot, upon which lay a number of t;n hoops, the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop, and wheL the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and in about five minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked.
8. Rusks, — Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water ; mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, oc- casionally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a mod- erate oven; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven, when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for use.
9. Tops and Bottoms. — Make a dough exactly as described in the last, but using only half the butter ; have a deep- edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well floured ; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet ; put them in a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven ; when cold, divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown in the oven as directed for rusks.
12 BREAKFASTS.
10. Buns. — Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to a board ; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart ; moisten the tops with milk ; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them to crack, and bake them in a hot oven.
11. — Brioche Rolls. — Put four pounds of flour upon a dres ser, one pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have dissolved an ounce of German yeast ; mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, which roll up into a ball : cut an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light, then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste, which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into small rolls ; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would be sufficient ; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them upon very especial occasions.
12. How to choose Eggs. — New-laid eggs should not be used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then obtain their delicate flavor
BREAKFASTS. 13
that which is termed milk in eggs being, according to my opin- ion, very insipid ; but that entirely depends upon fancy.
Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decom- position, it is very important that every person should know how to detect them (especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast: bit, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus with your hand ; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they are very doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each egg smelt previous to using; if, however, in looking at them, you see no transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away ; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a can- dle ; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and they have a brilliant light yellow tint ; in the spring of the year, it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh.
13. Eggs for Breakfast, — plain boiled. — Put about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire ; when boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking regularly : three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice.
14. Eggs au Beurre : a new method. — Let the eggs boil six minutes instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they will remain quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot.
Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible.
14 BREAKFASTS.
15. To boil Eggs hard. — Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done plaee them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool : take off their shells, and use them when required.
Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled.
16. Poached Eggs. — Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water -as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes ; have rather a thin piece of toast, as de- scribed (No. 1), upon a dish, take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too many together ; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkward- ness in poaching.
Again, the toast upon which they are served may be but- tered either with plain or maitre d'hotel butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the same with the ad- dition of a little maitre d'hotel butter poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy butter instead of the other ; thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxu- ries at a trifling expense.
17. Toast and Eggs. — Break three eggs into a small stew- pan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance ; have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately.
18. Eggs sur le Plat. — Lightly butter a small oval dish,
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upon which break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven, where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard, and serve hot ; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten minutes ; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most ex cellent dish.
19. Omelettes may also be served for breakfast with gi<_at advantage, being very relishing, especially the omelettes aux fines heroes, au lard, and aux champignons, but as they are considered to belong to the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts.
20. Herring Toast Sandwich. — Choose a bloater for this purpose not too dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back ; lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water over ; let them soak five minutes, when lay them upon a cloth to dry ; then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron ; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other : serve very hot.
21. Toast and Eggs with Herring. — Prepare your toast and eggs as directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very good.
Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold with- out splitting them ; they are very delicious ; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the fire.
22. Fish for Breakfast, — Bloated Herrings. — They require to be freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpala-
16 BREAKFASTS.
table ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth ; pass the point of a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a quarter of an inch in depth ; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire ; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them occasionally ; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and place half a small pat of butter in each ; again close hem : cooked this way they are delicious, especially if they are eal bloaters. Another way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain ; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you havt any that have become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.)
23. Dried Haddock. — A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half done, especially the larger ones ; the bet- ter plan is to cut them in halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first ; the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly ; when done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish.
Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course would take rather more time in cooking.
24. Whitings. — Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast : their method is, to obtain the fish as fresh as possi- ble, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there
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is a current of air ; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slov fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry if preferable.
25. Slips or Small Soles. — When cleaned, season them with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or accord- ing to the size ; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pom two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish iould be tolerated for breakfast.
26. Sprats when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire ; when about half done, turn them ; when done (which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on), serve dry in a very hot dish.
2 V. Meat for Breakfast, — Sheep1 s Kidneys. — Procure as many as you may require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient ; be sure that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their appearance ; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down to the root, but not to separate them ; then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part ; season them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron (the inside downwards), over a sharp fire ; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done ; then take them off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. In open- ing them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked.
28. Kidneys on Toast. — Prepare the kidneys precisely as in
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the last, but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly ; lay the kidneys upon it ; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve.
29. Kidney bread-crumbed, a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Prepare the kidneys as before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork ; season the kid- neys with a little salt and pepper, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put them upon the grid- iron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little maitre d'hdtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve immediately upon a very hot dish ; by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing ; dressed this way they may also be served upon toast.
30. Sauted Kidneys. — Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise ; and wrhen the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt ; set the pan on a moderate fire three minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done ; when have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be taken in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt.
Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or onions, over them wiiilst being sauted ; this mate- rially changes the flavor, and meets the approbation of many.
For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table.
31. Bacon and Ham, how to choose both fit for broiling. — Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it wTould perhaps eat rank : nothing requires more care than broiling.
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Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron ; put them over the fire ; it will take perhaps fivie minutes, if the fire is good, and more, of course, if slow, but in that short space of time turn them three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder ; it will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c, <fec.
To saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan ; set it on the fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very often, and serve it on very thin toast.
32. Ham and Eggs. — While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk.
33. Bacon. — The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred ; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire, turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes ; this will be all the cooking required : serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish color : if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times, and saute as usual, it will make it softer and less salt : serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, 't is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast.
34. Sausages. — Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast. By all means, never use them, except you are con- fident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through ; they keep good two or three
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days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in winter (with care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way, Bee future letter.
35. Sausages, how to cook them. — Prick them with a pin all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, turn three or four times, by doing which you will have vhem a very nice yellow color ; dish them, and serve them very hot.
36. Sauted Sausages. — If your fire smokes, it is preferable to saute them ; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages ; after you have pricked them as before mentioned, saute gently, a few inmates will do them, turn them often; in many in- stances a thin slice of bread sauted in the fat they have pro- duced is a great improvement; save the fat, as it is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them, throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being broiled or sauted ; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having extracted the oil from the skin ; they may also be fried in the frying-pan.
37. Black Puddings, broiled. — Make about six or eight in- cisions through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each side of the pudding; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, on rather a brisk fire, turn it four times in that space of time, and serve it broiling hot.
I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend it to a delicate stomach.
ON COFFEE. — Coffee, which has now come so generally into use, originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time im-
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memorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653 ; as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you the ao count of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, who made his coffee ; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now a scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers peti- tioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman, Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua's partner ; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the coun- try, and Bowman, by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. Bowman's apprentices were first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from whose wife I had this account." Having examined the renter churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica Coffee-House ; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667.
It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first qual- ity of that delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea.
I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who in- vited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party a VAnglaise, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arri- val of the guests, I was walking upon the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen- window, smelling most powerfully of tea : my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the deli- cious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. (See Pot-au-Feu.)
" My dear girl," said I (in French), " what process do you call that of making tea ? it never ought to be boiled."
" I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, " master and mistress like it well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux)."
" You are decidedly wrong," said I, " and I shall be most happy to show you the way we make it in England."
" Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she ; " I used to make it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired, making a most comical grimace, to refrain from laughing at her still more ridicu- lous fashion.
You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve year9 ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by
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the continual traffic of the English through that part of the country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage, which should be made as follows :
Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor) ; grind it at home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality ; if ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin saucepan, winch set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee round with a wooden spoal continually until it is quite hot through, but not in the least burnt ; should the fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until hot (which would not be more than two min- utes), when pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of the fire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stew- pan, pour the coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner.
To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is :
38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, when pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over closely for five minutes, when pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.*
* This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following eircimstance : Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its appearance, it tasted anything but palata- ble; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable bell vio- lently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which eveut, though unpleasant, made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup ; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh ac- quaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the steaming-hot refreshment as myself, who had patronized the 6teaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find" a wise man among my new travelling friends, who said, "1 never travel at night without being provided with a spirited companion ;" and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-
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The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required ; the cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan sufficiently large, and nsing the proper proportions of coffee and water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag.
39. Coffee, French fashion. — To a pint of coffee, made as before directed, add a pint of boiling milk, warm both together until nearly boiling, and serve. The French never use it any other way for breakfast.
40. White Coffee, a new style. — Put two ounces of un- ground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every half-minute ; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke arising from it, pour over hah* a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well, and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add half a pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar- candy or crystallized sugar ; it is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an agreeable change ; but if by neglect you let the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it ; it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily in a mortar if required.
percha goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie I had ever tasted, which produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve the do- mestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to simplify the present method of making coffee ; and should I be successful in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently, did not meet with the u spirited" friend I did, vowing they would never take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note :
"My Dear Sir, —I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never re* collect having tasted better. Yours, &c. W. C."
I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, but to keep the cafetiere in a bain-marie, which would avoid all the above inconvenience, both oa -egards quality and heat.
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41. Coffee, made v/ith a filter. — To make a quart ; first put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it, which again pour away, then put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, upon which put the presser lightly, and the grating, pour over half a pint of boiling water, let it drain three or four minutes, then pour over a pint and a half more boiling water ; when well passed through, pour it into a clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum arises, but not boiling ; pour it again through the filter, and when well drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a little cream, separately.
42. Another way, more economical. — Proceed as in the last, but draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after which pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee- grounds, which, when drained through, reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee.
TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666 : it has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is indi- genous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness, and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic ; but when old it has a different effect,* and in its native country is never partaken of until a year old, and not then, unless exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in particular, as that depends on taste ; but this I advise, that when you have a kind to your liking, to keep to it.
And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to make it ; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a
* Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon-juice in it, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning.
BREAKFASTS.
short time ago by accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the pot, when I heard a fearful scream up stairs in the drawing-room ; rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she stood having upset : twenty minutes at least had elapsed be- fore I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular hurry for), when I found that the servant, tliinking there was water in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the oven, which was rather hot ; when she brought it to me, I was rather annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea would not require so long to draw ; I then filled the teapot with boiling water, and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not al- ways hot : it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close of course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who actually laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, " We cannot teach anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do for us." Now what could you say to such people ? why nothing, but let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know have better sense ; proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of an hour be- fore ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready.
CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and it retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and did not come into use in England until much later ; and we find that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,000 lbs. weight of it ; at the present day there was, in 1848, 410,000 lbs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts : the tree grows to only a few feet in height.
In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is al- most as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which, to many, are unpleasant.
43. Chocolate. — Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into a stew or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with the spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees ; serve very hot, with sugar separate.
44. Chocolate made in the Italian method. — Procure a regu- lar chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes through the lid, one might be procured at any brazier's, put in
2
26 BREAKFASTS.
two ounces of chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the lid, with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve.
45. Cocoa. — Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered co- coa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved, when it is ready to serve ; sugar separately.
LETTER No. HI.
Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849.
Dear Hortense, — I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series, thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which references can be easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly found.
But one tiling I remember when at your house was, that when the remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side table, and let any one help themselves from it there ; your idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat be- fore their eyes almost immediately after rising from their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as follows : — First the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs, ti;c., a small knife and fork for each ; the butter in a pretty freezing butter-glass, just covered with clear 6pring water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley or water- cresses ; the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug contain- ing hot milk for coffee ; orange marmalade in its original pot, honey- comb, watercresses, and once a few nice young radishes, which were excellent, although a little out of season ; one day also dry toast was served, another day buttered, the next muffins, then crumpets, white and brown bread, and small rolls, thus making a continual change, but all so small and inviting. I shall always, when I have company, as you had then, arrange everything in the same manner, especially now that I have yovr receipts down. But when you are alone, you tell me, you never ma>r any such display, which of course would be ridiculous ; still even ih'i'i you vary, by having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which
EARLY LUNCHEONS. 27
change I like as well as you. I eat meat but occasionally, but Mr,
L generally likes a little broiled bacon, or boiled egg, things in
themselves very simple and pleasant to have upon the table. Yours, in haste, Eloise.
EARLY LUNCHEONS.
LETTER No. IV.
My dear Friend, — I feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in which you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts, and must say I felt very much interested in looking over them ; I am confident they would prove interesting and instructive to any young housekeeper ; I hope, therefore, you will preserve the originals, as I do not keep any copies, fearing they would confuse me by making reference to them ; so that, if at any future time I should make a repetition in other series, you would be able to correct me, for I am as willing as yourself that we should complete our work by going through every series comprising meals of the day.
The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of events, is the luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch ourselves, I am aware many small families make it a regular one, so our little journal would not be complete without some few remarks, which I intend mak- ing as short and concise as possible. When we were in business, our luncheons were comprised of any cold meats which were cooked for previous dinners ; if a joint of cold roast or boiled meat, it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its appearance at table, but reserving the trimmings for hash, if of roast meat, or bubble-and-squeak, if salt beef, which is an excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a joint to advantage ; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I used to send for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of bacon also left ; if mu+ton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty little paper frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint lightly, for you must be aware that, after four or five have dined from a leg of mutton, its ap- pearance becomes quite spoiled, and looks blackish when cold. Pork I also serve the same ; when parsley was cheap, I always laid a few branches round it, which used, as my visitors said, to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting. Our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game, which at that time used frequently to be pre- sented to us — pheasants, partridges, or grouse ; as it would then have been very extravagant to have purchased them, especially when they were so expensive. As an accompaniment to the meat, I always kept two different sorts of mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a glass of excellent table ale ; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or good customer, a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port.
28 THE NURSERY DINNER.
thinking that more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the first five years after my marriage : everything upon our table was of the first quality, and every one used to admire the neatness with which the table was laid out.
My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until half-past five o'clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the city), I have the cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past ; and that time being just after the nursery dinner, we generally have some sort of pudding or tait, made at the same time with theirs. For cold meat, I always serve that up which has been left from a previous dinner if any, or any remains of poultry, game, ham, or tongue. When, however, we have six or eight friends from the country at Christmas, I feel proud to show them my style of doing things well and economically, for they are very intelligent people, and can appreciate good living, though at home they really live too plain for their incomes ; but they say, " We do not understand how it is that you make a nice little di-h almost out of nothing." For should I have the remnants of any poultry or game not very inviting to the sight, I generally cut it up and show my cook how to hash it in a variety of ways ; and I always remark, that they never partake of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. For the methods of making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef, mutton, as also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of game, poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton cut- lets, steaks, and broiled bones, the whole of which may be served for luncheon, I must refer you to the series of receipts belonging to the dinner ; any of these articles are placed in order upon the table, with the pickle-stand, two different cruet-sauces, orange marmalade, potatoes, butter, cheese, sherry and port wines. This style of luncheon will no doubt surprise you, but I can assure you it scarcely increases my ex- penditure, having the same number to provide for daily, so that the luncheon is generally made up from the remains of dinner, and the re- mains of luncheon will dine our three servants at half-past one. In the summer, I introduce a few didies of fruit, and less meat ; and when there are several ladies. I often introduce some English-made wine, which once I used to make myself, but which I can now buy cheaper.
THE NURSERY DINNER. LETTER No. V.
Dear Friend. — Xow here I must call your especial attention to the way many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is often very alight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made quite
THE NURSERY DINNER. 29
a study of it, and could prove that health is always dependent on the state of the digestive organs ; and that, if you should improperly treat young stomachs, by over or under supplying their wants, or using them to ill-cooked food, you not only destroy the functionary coating of the stomach, but also impede the development of the intellect. It is, then, as much a science to manage the food of children, as to cater for the palate of the gourmet, and I shall always consider that good food is to the body what education is to the mind.
My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows : — At eight o'clock in the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to pre- pare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were first reared, rather unclassically denominated pap. My method was very- simple :
46. — Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and bottoms, in a small saucepan, with just sufficient water to moisten them ; set the saucepan upon the fire until its contents are thoroughly warmed through ; pour a little of the water away, if too thin, pressing the rusk with a spoon ; then add a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and beat the whole with a spoon until quite a pulp ; it is then ready for use.
I have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale piece of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before the fire, and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks ; and you must ob- serve, that people in a country village cannot always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury ; but look at the greater part of those country urchins, — are they not a real picture of health ? for, after all, nothing is more advantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food. When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I was astonished to hear that everybody used to put their children out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry, and found it literally true, that even respectable tradespeople sent their children a mile or two in the country, some to the houses of very poor people : I cannot say that I approve of such a style of bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as joyful as pos- sible. I also found there something to be learned, and that was, how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious, but which I considered at the time rather heavy for our climate ; but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I found him doing so extremely well, that I continued feeding him upon it for nearly eight months, until he was old enough to eat other food. The following is the receipt :
47. — Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to which add by degrees two gills of milk, mixing it into a very smooth batter with a wooden spoon ; place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred the whole time,
30 THE NURSERY DINNER.
or it is liable to burn or become brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it into a basin, and it ir ready for use. A little butter is also very good in it.
You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make than our pap ; but when used to it, you will expend no more time over it ; and, as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and no trouble. But what convinces me that it is more palatable and nutritious is. that I havfc seen a very robust man make a hearty dinner of two plates of it by introducing bread in it. I have no doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken from it, for the use of children of three or four years old, being thought too heavy for infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of you to curtail my remarks should you think pro- per ; but, although you may consider that every person is acquainted with these domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many persons neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much upon the food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for children of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk.
48. — For which, cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin slices, which put into a small basin or a large breakfast cup, in a little saucepan (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk, which, when upon the point of boil- ing, pour over the bread ; cover the cup over five minutes, and it is ready for use.
I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk to- gether. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I always added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do not like to accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet stuff, which often spoils the best set of te^th ; and here let me remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is health, and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our control, it is our duty to study their little com- forts, and direct their first steps in life in the road of happiness.
49. Porridge. — When children are delicate, porridge is often preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten with half a pint of milk ; let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece of butter and a little sugar, and it k ready for use.
When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and broth,
THE NURSERY DINNER. 31
but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general food the bread and milk and porridge ; but now they are old enough to eat any thing wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years of age), their meals are composed thus :
50. — Bread and milk for breakfast at eight ; the dinner at cme, which was composed as follows throughout the week : roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pud- ding, baked apples ; boiled mutton with turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding ; occasionally a little salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pud- ding ; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea (the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Com- forts for Invalids).
When in. business, the first three years we could not afford to keep a nursery, in fact, we had no room to spare ; the children then used to dine with us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse.
51. — They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after which, three times a week, plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart ; and, at five o'clock, their bread and milk again, previous to going to bed.
But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the follow- ing diet-table, for nurserymaid and all :
52. — First, about two pounds of mutton well-cooked, but with the real gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before a moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before being done ; when taken up and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt over the meat, and pour over three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light gravy.
Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of washing the meat : they would serve it as if it were for full-grown people, but you well know what would do for children as well as I — plain, sim- ple, and wholesome food ; I always carried out this system, and I now make my cook do the same.
53. — Then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton, plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart ; or a few dhes of roast bee^ or a small piece roasted on purpose, after
32 THE NURSERY DINNER.
which a very plain currant pudding ; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings ; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken- broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c, for which refer to tne receipts for invalids.
ISow the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners, we must refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for invalids, especially as regards broth, meat, puddings, <fcc, or otherwise we should have so many repetitions ; so that it would be better, upon the completion of the journal, to make references, either by numbers of receipt or page ; it will be more intelligible, and less confused.
Many people would, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety of food for children ; but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health, but, of course, with children, those changes must be effected with judgment, and their food administered in smaller quantities ; but you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, the proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a full-grown person, and never appear to be tired of eating, thus, of course, they do not require such quantities at a time. Having here terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave tins scene of romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and carefully enter, without noise, into tins mournful abode of human suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over their diet, my small efforts may improve their comforts, which, by being properly managed, may assist in thejr restoration to health. I shall, therefore, proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts for Invalids.
Nothing i^ to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for sick people, where the sense of taste is partially gone ; everything ordered by the doctors as food, should be cooked in the greatest perfection, espe- cially as everything they require is so very simple and easily done, that it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I am sorry to say that it is too often the case, even in many of our first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have provisions hi abundance, and of the first quality.
Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon that delicate subject, but, I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of visiting forao of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore speak with con- fidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have wished that they would follow a system I would lay down, but there are some people who would not change their style, however bad, for a better one, foi the world
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 33
Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure success to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade others to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following. Yours, <fcc.
HOETKNSE.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
54. Meat for Invalids. — The best meat as food for invalids is, in fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be introduced), and calves' feet or head, scalded and boiled until tender, are very nutritious ; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are also very inviting. All the above-mentioned articles are easy of digestion, excepting perhaps the beef, which may require to be gently stewed until tender, if for a delicate stomach jusX ordered to take meat after a serious fit of illness.
55. Plain Mutton Broth for Invalids. — Get one pound of scrag of mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without sepa- rating the meat, then put it into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt ; boil gently two hours, care- fully removing all the scum and fat, which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the fire ; it will be by that time reduced to about one quart, and is then ready to serve. This broth must not be expected to drink very palata- ble, being deprived of vegetables and seasoning, being in fact more like a beverage than a soup : at the commencement of convalescence more strength may be given if ordered by the doctor, by reducing the original quantity to one pint. This broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a time.
56. Seasoned Mutton Broth. — Put the same quantity of mutton and water into your stewpan, add double the quantity of salt, and a quarter ditto brown sugar, quarter of a middle- sized onion, very little celery, and one ounce of turnip ; set it 2*
34 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
upon the fire, and when beginning to boil draw it to the side ; let it simmer gently two hours ; skim off* all the scum and fat, and pass it through a sieve, and use it when required. When finished, there ought to remain about a quart of broth ; but if by neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a quarter of an hour longer. If the patient is getting oetter, his medical man will probably order him to eat a little of the meat, or even turnips, in which case serve them on a plate separately ; should the meat not be required by the patient, it is very excellent for a healthy person, with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a tablespoonful of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole will then be done together ; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient, take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of grease ; but if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as be- fore, through a sieve.
5 7. Mutton Broth (with variations). With Vermicelli. — Having made your broth, and passed it through a sieve, as be- fore, put the meat and vegetables upon a plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan ; when boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli, depending upon the strength of the patient's stomach ; ten minutes' boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli.
58. With Rice. — One spoonful of best rice in the stewpan, with mutton and water the same as the barley, as it is better for the rice to be in pulp than underdone.
59. With Semoulina. — Semoulina is very delicate and glu- tinous, and I am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or two ; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy digestion, and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and quickly cooked ; proceed as directed for vermicelli.
60. With Arrow-root. — After having passed your broth,
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS, 35
place it again into the stewpan to boil ; when boiling, put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or half ditto of water ; then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep stirring with a spoon ; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready for use.
61. Veal Broth {French method). — The following is much recommended by French physicians : — Put one pound of veal from knuckle, with but very little of the bone, into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil ; when boiling, take off all the scum ; then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs of chervil, if handy ; let simmer slowly for two hours, it will then be reduced to about :i quart ; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat drain, and it » ready to serve.
62. Another way, more palatable. — Take the same quantity of -veal as before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut all meat if possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat of buiter, half an onion, about the same quantity of carrot and turmp, a little celery, and a teaspoonful of salt ; set the stew- pan upon the fire, keeping the contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a whiush glaze, then add three pints of hot water ; let the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is most palatable and very digestible, but of course only to be given to the convalescent; it may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow- root, and semoulma, as directed for mutton broth.
63. AnoiJve? very Refreshing and Strengthening Veal Broth. — Put two pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with a calf's foot split, and the bone taken out and chopped up, add three quarts of water, a good-sized onion, one leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls of salt (if allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted), set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire four hours ; twenty minutes before passing,
36 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage-lettuce, and a handful of chervil, and when done pass it through a sieve, when it is ready for use. This broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then quite a jelly ; vermicelli, rice, (fee, may be added when served hot, and the veal and calf's foot is very excellent, eaten with parsley-and-butter or sharp sauce ; but should the patient require any, it must be quite plain, with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the foot.
The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in a cool place, would keep a week in winter and three days in summer.
64. Soyer\ new way of making Beef Tea. — Cut a pound of solid beef into very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of butter, a clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy, then add a quart of water, and let it simmer at the comer of the fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat, when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavor.
The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove ; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming, pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served a it if required.
65. Real Essence of Beef — Take one pound of solid beef from the rump, a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as quickly as possible, or the juice of the meat wrould partially soak into the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strengthening quality), when like sausage-meat put it into a stewpan or saucepan, and stir over the fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a pint of water, cover the stewrpan as tightly as possible, and let it remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes, then pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to ex- tract all the essence.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the meat ; but if wanted stronger, put only half instead of one pint of water ; seasoning may be introduced, that is, a little salt, sugar, and cloves, but no vegetables, as they would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad flavor.
66. Pure Osmazome, or Essence of Meat. — Take twc pounds of the flesh of any animal or bird (the older the better for ob- taining the true flavor), as free from sinew as possible, and mince it well ; place it in a Florence oil-flask, and cork it ; put this in a saucepan filled with cold water, leaving the neck un- covered ; place it on the side of the fire until the water arrives at 160° Fahr., at which temperature it must remain for twenty minutes ; then remove it, and strain the contents through a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon ; should it re- quire to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup, which place in the saucepan ; subject it to a boiling heat until it is reduced to a consistency like treacle, removing the scum ; this, when cold, will become solid, and will keep for any num- ber of years. Osmazome is known under various names in different cookery books, as " fumet, essence," &c, but which are obtained in a different way, which causes the gelatine to be pro- duced with the osmazome ; but, by the above plan, it is left in the meat, and the osmazome, with a small quantity of the al- bumen, is extracted, and the albumen is afterwards removed as the scum.
6*7. Chicken Broth. — Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan, with a quart of water, a little leek and celery, with a salt- spoonful of salt, and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed), set the stewpan upon the fire ; when boiling, skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour ; pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use.
The chicken would eat very nice with a little maitre d'h6tel sauce, or any other from that series would do for the parlor, that is, when the patient is not allowed to eat it.
For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nu- tritious ; that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve, pour it back again into the stewpan, which place over the fire ; moisten a teaspoonful of flour in a cup with a little cold broth
38 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
or water, and when quite smooth pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring quickly, let simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. Mutton or veal-broth may also be varied the same.
68. Eel Broth, very strengthening. — TaKe a small eel, which skin as described, and wash well, then cut into slices, which put into a small saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of parsley, two button onions, and a clove ; let it fiimmer very gently until the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, pass the broth through a very fine sieve into a cup : it is then ready to serve when required, but a spoonful only should be taken at a time.
A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, which being so much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general ; a little melted butter and parsley might be served with them.
69. Lait de Poule, French remedy for colds. — May be made from any of the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg, separate the white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a quarter of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a spoon, have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gradually over the egg and cream, mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon ; it is then ready, and ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold.
70. Sweet Lait de Poule. — This is also reckoned very good for a cold. Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two tea- spoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for ten minutes, then pour boiling water gradually over, keeping it stirred, until the cup is nearly full. Drink this very hot when in bed ; I can strongly recommend it from ex- perience.
71. Riz au Lait, or Bice Milk, is a very favorite food, or soup ; in France many persons make their suppers from it, even when in a state of perfec* health. Proceed as follows : wash a
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 39
tablespoonful of good rice in water, which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the rice is quite tender, but for invalids, must be in a pulp ; sweeten with a little sugar, and it is quite ready.
72. Mice Milk seasoned, — Proceed exactly as in the last, but when the rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two tea- spoonfuls of sugar, and a little salt, stir well together, and it is then ready ; this must neither be too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well-made gruel ; in France they always add a few drops of orange-flower water, but that depends upon taste. These two last are very nutritious, especially after a long illness.
73. Vermicelli au Lait. — Boil a pint of milk, and when boil- ing add sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last article ; it may be served quite plain if required, or seasoned as for the riz au lait, but omitting the orange-flower water.
74. Semoulina au Lait. — Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add a tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming lumpy ; let it simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned, as for the riz au lait.
75. Tapioca au Lait. — Proceed exactly as in the last, but it will require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender ; and, by way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine, if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last.
76. Arrow-root. — >Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root, which mix gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a spoon, let it boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add only a little butter, sugar, and salt, or serve plain ; but if made with water, add the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it ; when done add a glass of port or sherry, sugar, a littlle sat, and a small piece of butter, unless prohibited.
40 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
77. Gruel. — Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water, mixing smoothly with a wooden spoon, place it upon the fire, keeping it well stirred, until it has boiled a couple of minutes, when pour it into a basin, add half a salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, and two ounces of butter, the latter especially, if for a cold in the chest, even more than that quan- tity, if the stomach is strong enough to bear it.
Gruel when properly made ought to adhere rather thickly to the back of the spoon, but not to be pasty ; it ought, likewise, to be eaten directly it is made, or it becomes thick and unpleas- ant to eat ; if required plain, omit all the seasoning ; it might also be made of milk.
78. Gruel from Scotch Groats. — Proceed as above, but add- ing rather more water, and boiling a few minutes longer ; many people prefer eating it with the rough groats in it, but if objec- tionable, place a small clean sieve over the basin you intend serving it in, pass the gruel through, and season as in the last. Some people add spirits or wine ; but that I should never re- commend any one to do, unless by the doctors orders, and that would be but very seldom, especially as regards spirits.
79. Sago Gruel. — Put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a small saucepan, which moisten gradually with a pint of cold water, set it over a slow fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thickish and clear, similar to a jelly, then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according to taste, and serve ; half a pat of butter might also be added with the sugar, or it might be made with new milk, and a little salt added, and a glass of wine in either case makes it more palatable.
80. Arrow-root, Transparent Jelly. — Put a good teaspoonful ©f arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two spoon- fuls of water, then add enough boiling water to make it about the consistency of starch, stirring all the time, pour it into a stewpan, and stir over the fire until it has boiled two minutes ; add a little cream, a small glass of wine, and a little sugar, and serve.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 41
81. French Panada, for aged people, invalids, and children. — Break a stale penny roll into a saucepan, in which pour just sufficient water to cover the bread, stir well over the fire, allow- ing it to boil rive minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, mix them, and take from the fire ; have one yolk of egg well beaten, with two tablespoon fuls of milk (if handy) or water, which pour into the panada, stirring very quickly for half a minute, it is then ready to pour into a basin and serve. Any common bread wrould do for panada, but would not eat so light as when made from a roll.
I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed herself to eat a basin of panada every night, a few minutes previous to going to bed, for a period of eighteen years, which will prove that, although very substantial in appearance, it must be very easily digested.
Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may like- wise be made of milk, but water is preferable, especially when for bilious people.
82. Barley Wate$. — Put half a gallon of water into a very clean saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl barley, when boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a small lemon, let it boil until the barley is quite tender ; sweeten with half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and use when required. Tie juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be introduced.
83. Rice Water. — Put a quart of water to boil in a sauce- pan, with a handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon the fire, and let boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp, then pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible, and when getting cold, sweeten mod- erately with honey, which will make it very palatable ; it should be drunk lukewarm.
84. A New Drink. — Put half a gallon of water upon the fire, and when boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into eight slices, without peeling them, throw them into the water, which keep boiling until the apples
42 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
are quite soft, pass the water through a sieve, pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not rubbing them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish, and drink lukewarm.
Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a great improvement. People in good health would much enjoy such drink, during the summer especially ; as also would poor people in the country, where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would suit, and brown sugar instead of honey, or even no sugar at all.
85. Cooling Drink. — Bake four or six apples, without peel- ing them ; when done and quite hot, put them into a jug, and pour over three pints of boiling water ; cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is ready for use ; a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very palatable.
86. Almond Water. — Put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds into a saucepan, with a pint of hot water, set them upon the fire, and, when boiling, % strain them upon ? sieve, take off their skins, and set them in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound them in a mortar until very fine, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, when throw in the mashed almonds ; boil together a minute, then set it at the corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour ; it is then ready to pa?.$ through a fine sieve for use. When required, add any quantity of cold water you please to make it palatable, accord- ing to taste or direction.
87. Barley Lemonade. — Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil about ten minutes, or until forming a thickish syrup ; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and the pulp of two ; let it boil two minutes longer, when add two quarts of barley-water, from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon ; boil five min- utes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through ; when cold, it is ready for use ; if put cold into a bottle and well corked down, it would keep good several days.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 43
Barley Orangeade is made the same, substituting the rind and juice of oranges ; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when taken as a refreshing beverage.
88. A Refreshing Beverage. — Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put into a jug, with two ounces of sugarcandy, over which pour one quart of boiling water ; stir it occasionally until cold, when drink it a little at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attendant. This drink is also very excellent for persons in health, especially in Avarm weather.
89. Raspberry Vinegar Beverage. — Put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of boiling water ; when cold, use it as you may be instructed or when necessary ; any kind of fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be equally as good, that is, currants, cher- ries, strawberries, mulberries, &c.
90. A very Strengthening Drink. — Put a teacupful of pearl- barley into a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon and a small piece of cinnamon ; boil the whole very gently until the barley becomes tender, when strain it through a fine sieve, and sweeten with a spoonful of treacle : if treacle sho lid be objectionable, honey or sugar will do.
91. Fresh Fruit Water. — Fresh fruits, when in season, are very preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, ex- cept at some of the first confectioners or Italian warehouses.
Pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, whichever you may require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which mix well with half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a quart of spring water ; pass it through a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use ; both the syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to taste.
Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same, only omitting the lemon, the currants themselves being suffi- ciently sharp.
44 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
92. Cherry Draught. — Choose a pound of good fleshy cher- ries, from which take the stalk and stones, have a pint of syrup boiling, into which throw them, to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes, then take them from the fire, and add a good wTine-glassful of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of boiling water ; put it into a jug, with a cup over ; when cold, pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use : the wine may be omitted if not required. A drink of the same description may likewise be made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be added.
93. Arrow-root Water. — Put half a gallon :>f water to boil with twro apples, the same as in No. 84, with the addition of a stick of cinnamon ; let the whole boil half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of arrow-root with half a pint of cold wa- ter, very smoothly, and pour it into the boiling water; let the wrhole boil ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve ; when cold, it will drink light and thickish.
94. French Herb Broth. — This is a very favorite beverage in France, as well with people in a state of health as wTith in- valids, especially in the spring, when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of water to boil, but have previously pre- pared about forty leaves of sorrel, a cabbage-lettuce, and ten sprigs of chervil, the whole wrell washed ; when the water is boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a teasponful of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter ; cover your saucepan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after the change from winter. I generally urink about a quart per day for a week, at that time; but if for sick people, it must be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes as wrell as change their medicines.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
95. Dry Plum Beevrage. — Put a quart of water in a sauce- pan upon the fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry French plums, and let them boil twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to cool ; when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin ; add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine. They are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink.
96. Figs and Apple Beverage. — Have two quarts of water boiling, into which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened, and £wo apples, previously cut into six or eight pieces each ; let the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cool, then pass through a sieve ; drain the figs, which will be also good to eat.
97. Stewed Plums. — Put twelve French plums in a stew- pan, with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cin- namon, and some thin rind of a lemon ; let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry. They are sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret.
98. Baked Apples are very much used by invalids : have a common yellow dish, such as you frequently see in farmhouses, into which put about twelve apples (previously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put them in a hot oven for half an hour, or rather more should the apples be large ; when well done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat them cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar.
99. Cooling Lemonade. — Put a quart of water in a stew- pan to boil, into which put two moist dried figs, each split in two ; let it boil a quarter of an hour, then have ready the peel of a lemon, taken off rather thickly, and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices ; throw them into the stewpan and boil two minutes longer; then pour into it a jug, which cover closely with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve : add a tea- spoonful of honey, and it is ready for use.
46 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
100. Imperial, a cooling Drink for the Spring. — Two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons, juice and peel, four ounces of sugar ; place in a stone jug, and pour about six quarts of boiling water ; allow it to get cold, and bottle for use ; or, instead of sugar, add three tablespoonfuls of raspberry vine- gar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent aerated-like soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added, with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accus- tomed to spirits.
101. Orangeade. — Proceed as for lemonade, but using the whole of the orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening with sugar candy, and adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange. The arrow- root makes it very delicate.
102. Toast and Water. — The ease and simplicity of making this popular drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten, that is, in private families ; the bread is too much or too little done, or there is too much or not half enough water, or more or less bread ; I venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from house to house, where there are patients, and taste toast and water at each, they would not find two of the same flavor, and perhaps not any of it properly made. To make it to perfection, proceed as follows : cut a piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire ; turn it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow color, then place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate color, put it into a jug, and pour three pints of boiling water over ; cover the jug until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use : never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and water as I have described would keep good a considerable time !D bottles.
The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 47
come from it : if }rour house was burnt to ashes, it would be valueless ; and the same with burnt bread, which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the bread, intended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being burnt.
Puddings for Invalids.
103. Apple and Rice. — Boil half an ounce of CaiJ>lina rice in a gill of milk until very tender, then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a little cinnamon, and a grain of salt ; then peel, core, and slice a middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water, and stew it until tender ; when done, put the apple in a small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, which pour over the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven ; it may also be made quite plain, if preferred.
104. Custard Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay -leaf, for three minutes ; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered mould : steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with some water (see No. 112), turn out on a plate and serve.
105. Pice Puddings. — Wash well two ounces of rice in some water, strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf, tied together ; let it boil gently, stirring it occasionally, until quite tender ; then put to it one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sugar, and two eggs ; pour it into a buttered tart-dish, and bake it half an hour.
106. Macaroni Pudding. — Blanch two ounces of Naples macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes ; strain it, add it to one pint of boiling milk, in which you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and one ounce of but- ter ; when the macaroni is quite tender, add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it : steam it one hour in a stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish.
48 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
107. Vermicelli Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce of vermicelli ; when reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar ; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an hour.
108. Tapioca Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon ; then add two ounces of tapioca ; reduce to half* add two eggs, and one ounce of but- ter ; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam half an hour.
109. Bread. Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel ; pour it on two ounces of bread- crumbs ; then add two eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.
110. Cabinet Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it soak half an hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of cur- rants, and very little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour.
111. Bread and Butter Pudding. — Butter a tart-dish well and sprinkle some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and butter ; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter ; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour.
112. A Small Bread Pudding. — Cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into thin slices, with the least piece of butter spread over each, which place in a small tart-dish ; then break an egg into a cup with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little pow- dered cinnamon, beat well ; then add about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water, that is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 49
dish ; set the stewpan (covered close) upon the fire, and let it slowly boil about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is properly set, then take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a few minutes longer upon the fire ; then take out the pudding, wdpe the dish, and serve.
Fish for Invalids, — Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and smelts are the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more to be recommended to invalids in .a state of convalescence.
113. Whiting, plain boiled. — Put two quarts of water into a small fish kettle, with about an ounce of salt ; when boiling, put in the whiting, draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and no more ; a whiting of the ordi- nary size would take about ten minutes ; when done, which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife whether it leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it upon a clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley round ; although the parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned, nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully cooked and invitingly served.
At any time I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether boiled, grilled, or fried ; a little butter just melted, with a pinch of salt, and the least drop of lemon-juice added, is very excel- lent to eat as sauce with them. Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will of course require cleaning, by opening the belly and pulling out the gills and interior ; but never wash these fish, merely wipe them with a cloth.
114. Broiled Whiting. — Having cleaned your whiting, and wiped it gently dry with a cloth, flour it all over lightly, rub the gridiron over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and put it over a clear fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when it feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done ; if a large one, it will take about twenty minutes ; sprinkle a little salt over, if required, and serve with plain melted butter, with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it. 3
50 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
115. Sauted Whitings. — Put some fat or butter in a frying- pan, which place over a clear but moderate fire ; have your whiting floured as in the last, and when the fat or butter is melted, lay it in the pan ; let it saute slowly until it is done, which try as in either of the last two ; when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve.
If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into flour, then egg it all over with a paste-brush, and dip in some very fine bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not let the fat get black, or it will give the fish a black, heavy ap- pearance, and quite spoil the flavor. Fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance than when fried in fat, but prob- ably would be objectionable to a weak stomach. They ought to be completely covered with the fat.
116. Smelts are very delicate fish, but ought never to be plain boiled ; being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet for the sick, I shall here give two receipts for dressing them very plainly, yet still very palatable. Choose them rather large, — if so, two would be sufficient for a meal, — having previously drawn and cleansed them, put a gill of water into a small stewpan, with a little salt, a saltspoonful of pow- dered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley ; when boiling lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered ; then take them out carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth over ; both fish and broth are excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the oven.
Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop of cold water, to the above, when half cooked ; it makes it very soothing to the chest. Be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the bottom of the stewpan ; there should be about three parts of the quantity of liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one quarter to evaporate whilst boiling.
117. Broiled Smelts. — When cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and put them upon a grid- iron over a slow fire, for five or six minutes, turning them care- fully when half done ; serve plain, or with a little sauce, if al-
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 51
lowed, as many patients are forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner ; and it is well known that nothing in the way of food is more di- gestible than fish.
Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above.
Meat, Game, and Poultry, of every kind, for invalids, ought to be served as free from fat as possible.
118. A Mutton Chop. — Choose one from a lean loin of mut- ton, or if one in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it off; your chop should be about six ounces in weight, and cut off an equal thickness ; lay it upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper, then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear fire ; season with a little salt, if allowed, and turn it four or five times whilst broiling ; it will require about eight minutes over a good fire, but of course longer over an indifferent one ; if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm, it is done ; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to a person unwell.
119. Plain Mutton Cutlet, from the NecJc. — An invalid will frequently be tired of a mutton chop ; and for my own part I must say a cutlet is far superior in flavor, and has a much neater appearance ; cut off a rib from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop ; cut away the skin upon each side of the bone, to the chine, which chop off; trim away the greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone, which scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare ; then beat it lightly with the flat of the chopper ; season ; broil and serve very hot, as in the last.
120. Stewed Chop or Cutlet. — Put it into a stewpan or small saucepan, with a pint of water, and a little salt and sugar ; let it stew as gently as possible from an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum and fat, and the patient
52 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
may partake of both chop and broth ; if seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the water, when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before ; serve the broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it ; should the meat happen to be tough, let it stew rather longer ; the broth should be reduced to about half a pint.
.121. Beef, Rump Steak. — The tenderest part of the rump should be selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even ; place it upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently ; when done, sprinkle a little salt over ; ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, but if wanted under- done, as in many cases where the patient only sucks the gravy, less time must be allowed.
122. Stewed Beef. — Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when beginning to boil, well skim, then add a lit- tle celery, turnip, and carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small, let stew gently about three hours, by which time the broth will be reduced to one quarter ; skim all the fat off carefully ; serve the meat upon a plate, and the broth in a basin.
123. Lamb Chops or Cutlets. — Proceed as just described for mutton, but being more delicate, they will require but lit- tle more than half the time to cook.
124. Lambs'1 Feet are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned ; lay them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to draw out the leg-bone with facility ; then put them in a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have mixed smoothly a table- sp oonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip ; boil gently for two hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 5D
little melted butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any meat instead of water, you make a deli- cious soft soup, which may be partaken of freely.
Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time ; they are served precisely the same.
Poultry for Invalids.
125. Roast Chicken. — Procure a nice plump chicken, ^hich draw and truss, and cut the sinews ; pass the spit through un- der the skewer as usual, and set it down before a clear fire ; after being there five minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with which rub the chicken all over ; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a short distance, that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color ; when a light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty minutes from the time it was put down, it is done ; but to be quite sure whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly, with your finger and thumb ; should it feel quite set, it is suffi- ciently cooked.
126. Boiled Chicken. — Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter ; when boiling, lay in the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it will be done.
By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after skimming off the fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five minutes.
As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would suffice for four meals.
First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of light broth ; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken, which let remain to warm about Hve minutes ; should the rice be too dry, add a little more broth ; serve the fowl and rice
54 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly, plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy.
127. Partridge. — Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for the chicken ; a young one would require about ten minutes, or an old one fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten ; whatever remains may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens.
128. Pigeons may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows : — Put half a pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for boiling, let it stew gently twenty min- utes, if young ; both the pigeon and broth ought to be par- taken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the wings, but not separating them ; rub over with a little butter, broil twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.
129. Pulled Fowl. — With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water ; let it boil gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire until quite hot, and serve ; should it be too thin, a small piece of butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned to account and properly used : you would proceed with an old fowl the same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding more water in proportion ; it would be here impossible to name the exact time required, as the fluctuation
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 55
is so great, but by feeling the thigh, of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with ease.
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.
LETTER No. VI.
Dearest Eloise, — I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend to give you for invalids. You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is ex- travagant ; but let me teach you that when you must pay the doctor's bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as soon as possible, which my receipts might, if well coupled with the science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration, and have the desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that of the doctor. But I must also tell you that I intend this part of our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of society, and that, among those receipts, the rich as well as the humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to their means and their requirements. I am confident that you will agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules of economy.
I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the parlor, and to witness the merry faces of the million who have abandoned their industrious occupations for the day, and partake, in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I always used to say, when in business, that he who works well deserves to live well, — I do not mean to say extravagantly, but that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. "We, therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really un- worthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where provi- sions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to quantity and quality. Y"»urs, <fcc. Hortense.
LETTER No. VII.
My dear Mrs. B. — Your observation upon the way many people live in this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style of manage- ment ; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as it is a mat- ter of importance, I should like you to describe in your next communi- cation what are the principal and most useful joints in a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good which may be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, &c. Eloise.
56 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE,
LETTER ]STo. VIII.
Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L,
At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the va- riation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a series or list of those provisions ; but, on the other hand, I must tell y~u frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am Wrong, let any one who knows better correct me ; you will allow I am always open to conviction and improve- ment, no matter how trifling, which often leads to an important one.
I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous, offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way, and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few which are considered the best. They are as follow :
Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, aitchbone.
In mutton — leg, saddle, haunch, loin.
Lamb — fore-quarter and leg.
Yeal — fillet, loin.
Pork — leg, sparerib, loin.
Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write for the din- ner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on the subject. Be- sides, there is tlii^ advantage, that if a small tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint, he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now considered the first class, which at the present mo- ment bear too high a price in proportion, but winch his pride causes him to purchase.
To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over the inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will rind that ten of the prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a want of the knowledge of cookery ; leaving the science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away, after having absorbed a great portion of the suc- culence of the meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu ; taste the broth and eat the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am rather partial to them ; but why not manage to make use of the broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed ? Were the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less expensively than at present ,
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 57
very often, four or five different little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday's joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyro- ligneous acid, which sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the par- lor window by the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the butterman or greengrocer ; this may be excusable once or twice, on a hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely salt pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of that way of liv- ing in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.
You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty, or more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments still more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to dress the dinner, if my plan was adopted ; not at all, if the kitchen is properly constructed : but in these establishments, joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is very little left ; what there is, is con- sumed cold for supper ; but even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls erected by the good feelings of government, or by public charity. I have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a professed cook ought to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to visit all such in the metropolis, not only to inspect the quality of the provisions, but superintend the arrangements of the dietary table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and thus correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day ; I am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns ; and, if it was in existence, we should not have to deplore such lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at Tooting, where, no doubt, many were to blame ; for, by the calculation I have made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough to allow for good pro- visions, and leave sufficient remuneration for any reasonable and not covetous man. Why should not these poor children be watched over, and made as comfortable in every respect as the wish of those who pay to support them require ? besides, it has an effect upon after generations ; for upon the food at the period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest attention, the race-horse ? compare him with others of liis species not so humanely treated, and note the difference : so it is with the human race ; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country 3*
58 CULINARY C0RRES10NDENCE.
depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as above mentioned ; and it is only by giving notoriety to these important details, and being positive in exposing the truth, that we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing the few, if you are to be useful to the many. Forever, <fcc. Hortexse.
LETTER No. IX.
My dear Hortexse, — After the receipt of your last observations, which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten them ; at all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and, as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has constantly studied do- mestic comfort and economy ; I shall therefore copy them in the journal just as you send them to me. Truly yours,
Eloise.
LETTER No. X.
My dear Eloise, — I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full conviction that I was right, and from facts which experience alone can engrave on the memory ; but, however, we will now proceed : but I think it will be necessary to alter our original intention, namely, in order to save any confusion, to class all the receipts for the dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and follow, on a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a large scale, in his ' Gastronomic Regene- rator,' by which the most inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thu- make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an innumerable number of removes; entrees, roasts, savory dishes, vegetables, sweets, dessert, <fcc, and having chosen one or two of each series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained
Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new idea, as it is rather deviating from our original one ; but observe, that haying so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and also for Invalids, it will be more clearly understood than by repeating the same over and over again, which would be unavoidable if following our first proposi- tion. Yours truly, in haste,
Hortense.
LETTER Xo. XL
My dear Hortense, — Xever were you inspired by a better idea re- Ipecting your new plan ; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy our
ROASTING. 59
labor is over ; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to our taking a few hints from his " Kitchen at Home," which forms the last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as follows :
" Dear Madam, — It would be entirely deviating from the preface of »ny 'Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power; and as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from the part entitled ' My Kitchen at Home.'
" Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam, most sincerely, your humble and devoted,
" Reform Club. A. Soyer."
As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes. He says, in Ms preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse ladies anything in his poAver ; so far he has kept his word with us : so you may, dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall expect, by the next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts, which I am con- fident you will make as simple and as short as possible. With kindest regards, yours,
Eloise.
Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sauteing, Broiling.
ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it, although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being evidently an improvement on broiling : we can easily understand how, in the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered with the ashes with which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species of grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it : this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the presort day, and even in London to within a few years ; for I remember seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages, on which was laid the wood, and when the meat, (fee, was spitted and ar- ranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. (It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have those of the name of turnspit ; whilst in others, where there happened to be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel to the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to the mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon the nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the time which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.
GO BAKING BOILING STEWING BRAISING.
BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this subject again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best of which have the same form as in the time of the Egyptians. Previous to the art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food of the people ; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred years after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting ovens, vrhich cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and. in large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be /ound the time required by each for baking, "but, in a general way, foi meat, hot ovens are the best ; for poultry, not so hot as meat ; and pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven, they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for meat and fish.
BOILING is the next branch of the art winch is of the most impor- tance and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most difficult, and is a subject upon winch, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good quarto volume ; it is one of those easy things which it is sup- posed everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its flavor or nourishment ; great difference of opinion exists amongst med- ical men which are the easiest of digestion — roasted or boiled meats. I say it is a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the different constitutions and climate ; for we might as well say that the food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy.
STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its econ- omy ; pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved ; it should be done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skim- med. Great cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing.
BRAISIXG is the next and most important part of the art of cook- ing, and, like the saute, belongs entirely to the French school, from whom it takes its name, braise being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or live charcoal : and as tins plan of cookery requires the action of the fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures. The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made deep on purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gas- tronomic society winch was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a re- ward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a
61
new mode of dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed his imagination to quite a different mode, and u^ed the pan instead of the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicu- rean body, who awarded lnm the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly, taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts fur which will be found in their proper place.
FRYING. — Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done properly. I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, te the idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every private house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it badly ; but, in the first place, we ought to consider, What is frying \ It is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease, by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the heat winch effects tins object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine, or, more commonly speaking, cooked ; to do this properly, the substance ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all over it at the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be dried out of that part winch is not covered, and the succulence and fla- vor of the viand lost; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat winch would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immer- sion, it would then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and de- stroy its flavor, which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy. Those articles which are fried are generally those which have a coating of materials (such as bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly car- bonized, and thus form a crust which prevents the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids, and preserves the flavor of the article ; the carbonization once effected, the fire should be immediately moderated, particularly if the article is large, in order that the interior may be- come properly solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much liked, as they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety.
The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or cop- per pan lorg enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and fill three to four inches of it with fat — the skimmings of the stock-pot, or, if that should not be sufficient, the kidney-fat of beef, cut up, melted, and strained. In wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some, bacon-fat melted is used, and, for some articles, olive oil, winch can only be used once ; but in our less luxurious homes I think the above is sufficient, besides, it has the advantage of not requiring that great attention which the other does. When you have the fat on, before immersing the sub- stance you intend to fry, see that it is sufficiently hot by dipping your finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, and then hold it over the fat, so that a few drops go into it ; if it spits and throws back the water, it is sufficiently hot : or, throw in a small dice of bread and take it out immediately ; if it is firm or colored, it is hot enough : or, in frying of
62 SAUTEING.
fish, before putting it in, lay hold of the head and dip the end of the tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the remainder go in. I have found, if due attention is paid to the pan to prevent it from burning, forty arti- cles may be fried in it before it wants renewing ; and I am certain it will be found cheaper than the common way of putting a little fat into the frying-pan and turning the sole over and over, for you are then almost certain of sending the grease up to the table, where it is not wanted. When the fat is not used, it should be emptied, whilst hot, through a sieve, into an earthen pipkin, and covered with paper to pre- vent the dust going in it. For the purpose of frying, an iron wire-bas- ket, with a handle, is used, in which the object to be cooked is placed, and thus inserted in the liquid. The cost of this instrument is trifling.
SAUTEIN'G. — You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that the word fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word saute, which process is totally different, and produces quite another effect on food. Saute means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter, oil, lard, or fat, one side of the article at a time, whilst the other requires about 100 times more of the above-named materials to cook properly. You will see, in these remarks, that it is not frying a pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, steak, or cutlet, but that they are sauted ; and how to explain that word, to use it instead of the misap- plied word fry, puzzles me considerably, as I am quite ignorant of its origin as regards its application to cookery. All the researches I have made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclopaedias, have not enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it means to jump, hop, skip, understood by our boys at school, as well as by the grasshopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter, to jump. I well remember at school we had a French emigre for a dancing-master, who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to his professional taste ; and used to say, in shaking his powdered wig, as holding his riddle in one hand and his bow in the other, making all kinds of grimaces and contortions, which used to remind me of the prin- cipal figure in the group of the Laocoon, — " Mon dieu, mon dieu, young miss, vous sautez tres bien, mais vous dansez fort mal ;" which means, " You jump very well, but you dance very badly." It also reminds me of an expression made by a friend of ours from Havre, who was on a visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy Fawkes carried about the street, he asked me what it meant ; when I told him, that in the year 1605, an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder the King and Parliament in the House of Lords, as well as •. " Oui, oui, ma- dame, I know, I remember reading of it in English history ; it was that little brute qui a voulut faire sauter le Parlement," replied he very quickly. "Sauter, sauter" I said; "no, sir, not saute — blow up." "Oui, oui, madame, I know, it is the same thing." "Same thing," replied I. Tins of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more ; and I perceived, that if the word was translated to his meaning, it would sound most absurd and ridiculous ; as, for example, on being at a festive board, and a polite young gentleman, or even your own hus- band, might gallantly offer to give you a blow-up cutlet, instead of a
BROILING. 63
cotelette saute, as they say in fashionable circles. I can easily conceive, that if the cotelette was blown up, it would stand a chance of coining down on the other side, thus saving the cook the trouble ; but if Uuy Fawkes had unfortunately succeeded, it would have produced quite another effect. Having failed in my literary researches, I tried to find it in practice. I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two spoonfuls of oil in a sautepan ; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling, put on the lire ; and, as it began to act upon it, the oil began to jump, and also slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the way my French friend used the word was right ; and that, after all, there was not such a great difference in Guy Fawkes's plan of cooking the Parlia- ment and that of a cutlet or clricken, for both were doomed to destruc- tion, the one by falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured by a ravenous stomach on the dinner-table. Now, dearest, having found no means of translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan but to adopt it amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for the beauty of the word, but for its utility. The process of sauteing is at once quick, simple, and economical, and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article of food. The art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly, to keep the gravy and succulence in the meat, which a slow process would nullify, and is of course confined to small articles of every kind of food.
BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode of cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state of nature. It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore should be done well ; it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be exceedingly clear, and the best gridiron is that having round bars, which should be placed slanting over the fire, to prevent the fat going into it ; the bars should be greased, and the gridiron should be placed on the fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it. I have heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon the proper broiling of a steak, if it should be turned only once or often. My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, that, if turned but once, the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, and the heat throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, when turned over, goes into the fire ; by turning it often, so as at first only to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes evenly done throughout. (See "Soyer's Mutton Chop.") As regards the thickness of the meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on the intensity of the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the sooner it i9 eaten after taken from the fire the better. I have latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is considered in improvement ; it is, on turning them the last time, to dredge them Dut of a dredger with fine holes, in which has been placed four table- spoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a salts poonful of either eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder, or finely -pulverized salts of celery, well mixed to- gether, and the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, with a little mush- room-ketchup and a small piece of butter, and served immediately.
64 SAUCES.
SAUCES.
Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which consists of certain rules called Syntax, which is the foundation of all languages : these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others ; but these, like its prototype the grammar, have two — -brown and white, which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use , the others are the ad- juncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections ; upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner ; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is pro- duced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord should exist, winch would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear ; but which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be very precise in describing the two, in order that when you make them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each other, when partaking of them at your festive board, for the present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow what we do not like ; for it is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from ; and observing the astonishment of some of his neighbors, he very coolly remarked, " A fool would have burnt his mouth."
When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes, winch easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when I expect a little company, the first I order of my cook is to make me half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown sauces : —
130. White Sauce. — Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weigh- ing about four pounds, into large dice ; also half a pound of lean bacon ; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quar- ter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a tur- nip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, when fill up with three quails of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let
SAUCES. 65
simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping well skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin ; in another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once, continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour ; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold; the above being a simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.
131. Brown Sauce. — Put two ounces of butter into a stew- pan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water ; set it on a brisk fire, let it re- main ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice brown color ; fill your pan with three quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, skim fat and all ; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thickening or roux for it, proceed as follows : — Put two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour, stir it until getting a thin deep yellow color ; this in France is called roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be often re- ferred to in these receipts. This process will take five minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at once three and a quarter pints of the above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, remove to corner to simmer, and skim ; it ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chestnut color.
132. Demi-Glaze — Thin Brown Sauce for Made Dishes. — When I have a small dinner-party, I always, as I told you be-
* Half veal and beef can be used ; or if no veal, all beef.
GG BAM
fore, make small quantities of white and brown sau© but this is :t nice way of clarifying a brown Bancs without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful transparent bcown color* but although I have made it quite a study, that each**! made dish for daily use, should make it- own sauce, yet I must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce in a middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or oon- somm6, put it on the stove, stir with wooden spoon, let as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to Hie sur- face, reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it through a Bieve or tammy into a basin, stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top7 put it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil ; the addition of a tabiespoonful of tomatos, gives it a beautifil color ; use where indicated.
133. Thin Brown Sauce of Mushrooms. — Put twelve table- spoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have Bix or eighi small mushrooms well cleaned and washed, chop them mie, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your liking ; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement: a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. This sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl and game, <tc.
134. Eschalot Sauce. — Chop fine about a good tabiespoonful of eschalot, wash them by placing them in the corner of a nap- kin, and pouring water over them ; press them until dry, put them in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace ; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoon- fuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and serve.
135. Piquant Sauce. — Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots, <-leaned as above, into a Btewpan ; put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add t<-n tablespoonfuls of brown sane*, half a one of eho]»]>< d parsley, ditto of green gherkins ; l><»il Bye minutes, skim, add a Uttle sugar, taste if well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.
SAUCES. 67
136. Tarragon Sauce. — Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi- glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan ; boil for a few min- ules, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially spring chickens.
137. Brown Cucumber Sauce. — Peel a small fresh cucum- ber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set it on a slow fir^ stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and four of broth ; let it simmer till tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucum- bers into another stewpan, reduce the sauce a little, taste it and serve.
138. Mince Herb Sauce. — Put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire, stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi- glaze and four of broth or water ; boil, skim ; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, add half a gill of broth or water ; boil, and reduce to a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if handy, one of mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne, the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this.
139. Italian Herb Sauce. — Proceed in the same way as the above, only add a little chopped thyme and a small glass of sherry.
140. Robert Sauce. — Peel and cut up two good-sized onions, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter till they are a nice yellow color, then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth ; skim, boil quick ; when a proper thickness, add a good tablespoonful of French mustard ; season it rather high ; if no French mustard, use English, but it com- pletely changes the flavor, though still very palatable.
141. Ravigote Sauce. — Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one
68 SAUCES.
clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, four of broth ; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly ; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poul- try ; with hare or venison it is excellent.
142. Brown Mushroom Sauce. — Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them in a stewpan with a little but- ter, salt, pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a sIcav fire for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of demi- glaze ; boil till they are tender, and serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced.
143. Orange Sauce for Game. — Peel half an orange, re- moving all the pith ; cut it into slices, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the stewpan ten spoonfuls of dem-iglaze, or two of broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and waterfowl : those that like may add cayenne and mustard.
144. Garlic Sauce. — Though many dislike the flavor of this root, yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomatos if handy ; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, and serve.
145. Mint Sauce for Lamb. — Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar ; stir it well up, add one saltspoonful of salt, and serve.
146. Liaison of Eggs. — Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream ; pass it through a fine sieve, and use when direct--!.
SAUCES. 69
14 7. Anchovy Butter Sauce. — Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of denii-glaze, or three of broth ; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter ; stir continually till melted : serve where directed.
148. Soyer's Sauce. — Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan ; when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce ; let boil, and serve with either chop, steak, cotelettes, poultry, or game.
149. Papillotte Sauce. — Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and boil ; then add a tablespoonful of mush- rooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a little scraped garlic ; reduce till rather thickish ; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may put up " en papillotte."
150. Tomato Sauce. — If fresh, put six in a stewpan ; hav- ing removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to re- move pips, &c., add half an onion, sliced, a little thyme, bay- leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of ham, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper ; set on fire to stew gently ; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat oi poultry. If preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce respecting the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, add the tomato, instead of brown sauce, add a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper thickness, and pass it through a sieve, and serve as above.
151. Curry Sauce. — This I generally keep ready-made in the larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as curry ; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to curry, but he likes it in winter ; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After
BAUCB&
having partaken of some one very hot summer's day. I felt quite cooL .-:-;jly twenty years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that refres _ but I can enjoy it in any
season
■ pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two of itfa a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of ham, a blade of mace, four p: j, two bay-leaves,
ga rf thyme; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablesrxx>nfuls of the best curry me of vinegar, two of flour, a tea-
spoonful o: - f« _ >:--n it with a quart of broth
or milk, or ter, with the addition of a little glaze ; boil
till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the ■ all through a line sieve or tammy, give it another r a few minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required, ultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excel- L in this i th well -boiled and dry
rioe. I t this s I place in the winter for a
_ ' . . .- quantity w may
d of carry i man-
_ i
152. A pood and useful White Saw- r). —
Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a
until reduced to one third ; put two yolks
_ ga in a basin, stir them well up, add your sauce gradually,
: back in 3 for a few min-
| int of boiling milk, which will bring
.' - ill proper thickness : that is. when it adheres transparently
back of a spoon : pass through a tammy into a basin,
w and then till cold: if not immedi I . and I
have i half of it with half of milk. I also
-.\ which is very convenient : when the yolks are in,
. I put it in a large srallipot, and when cold,
paper, and it will keep good in winter for
k in summer : and when I
want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and
warm it< fire, and add enough milk or white broth to
sickness, and use where required. This
sauce . iooth, and nev ^ies beauti-
SAUCES.
fully on fowl, or any white made dish ; the addition of a drop of cream g: lite appearance.
15S. -. — Peel and cut six onions in slices ;
put in ... with a quarter of a pound of butter.
spoonful of salt one of sugar, a half one of pepper : place on a
simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then
event them getting brown, then add one tablespx)nful of
flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which
should be a little thicker than melted butter ; pass through a
tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, rab-
: fowl ; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and
boiled rabbit as onion sauce.
154. P Sauce. — Boil a cauliflower well in
. in which you have previously put one ounce of lv I fiblespoonfuls of salt ; when done, chop it
up, having prepared and slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion shced, a little celery, half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a t ablesrx>oniul of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass and finish the same way.
155. Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce. — Peel twelve, and well wash, boil till tender, and proceed as abov
156. Turnip Sauet Puree. — Boil six middle-sized ones,
as all the wj an out of them, and proceed as the
above.
13 7. IVTiite Cucumber Puree. — Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same vegetable as for the cauliflower ; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, three gills of milk or broth, boil, and finishing as the eaulifi:
158. SSo rei Sauce, or Puree. — Wash well four handfuls of
72 SAUCES.
sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter ; let it melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a tea- spoonful of salt, half one of pepper, moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream ; pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.
159. Spinach Puree (see Vegetables, 2d Course). — Endive is often used in France, and called chicoree. This puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper and sugar.
160. Stewed Peas and Sprew Grass. — For cutlets, sweet- breads, fowls, or any dishes, they are applicable (see Vegeta- bles, second course), also French beans, only using one third of the quantity that you would for a made dish for an entremet.
161. Scooped Jerusalem Artichokes. — Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash them, put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar ; put it on a slow fire for a few minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, six of white broth or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very quick, and serve ; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be well done ; they must not be in puree ; they are good with or served under any white meat.
162. Scooped Turnips. — Proceed exactly the same, only serve a little thinner : they will not do if stringy.
163. Button Onions. — The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil longer, according to their size.
SAUCES. 73
164. Young Carrots. — Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it requires a longer time boiling ; when tender, if for white sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve.
165. White Mushroom Sauce. — Use small white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes, add a gill of white sauce, four table-spoonfuls of broth, milk, or water ; boil and serve under any white meat.
166. White Cucumber Sauce. — Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthways into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long ; add, in stewpan one ounce of butter, a tea- spoonful of sugar, half of salt, let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, six spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, simmer gently and skim, add a tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.
167. Ragout of Quenelles. — Make twelve nice small que- nelles (see Quenelles), warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot ; when well done, pour on the liaison over with the juice of a lemon, and serve. A few English truffles or mush- rooms may be added to this sauce.
168. Maitre d? Hotel Sauce. — Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk ; boil it five minutes, then stir in two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter ; stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in ; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.
169. Green Peas Stewed. — Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three table-spoonfuls of white
74 SAUCES.
sauce, two ounces of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together ; boil them ten min- utes ; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it in quickly, and serve.
1*70. Green Peas, with Bacon. — Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, two of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley ; let it boil about ten minutes ; have ready braised about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar ; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve.
1*71. Blanched Mushrooms. — Get a pottle of fresh mush- rooms, cut off the dirt, and likewise the heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve ; put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt ; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black ; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use ; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in ; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use where indicated.
Observe : Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that prac- tice alone can attain ; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth ; throw them into the liquid above mentioned.
1*72. Onions Stuffed. — Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which adds a better flavor if left, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry ; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mush-
soups. 75
room, mixed in it), and put them in a saute-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender ; turn them over and serve where required.
173. Hot Tartar Sauce. — Put two table-spoonfuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few min- utes, then add two tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot but not boiling ; put it on a dish, and serve where described.
174. Mephistophelian Sauce. — Do not be afraid of the title, for it has nothing diabolical about it ; the first time I tried it was at Mr. B.'s birthday party ; and some of his friends having over and over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o'clock, hav- ing asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake, not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses.
I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard over it, sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the gridiron on the fire, and made the following sauce : I chopped six eschalots, washed and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with one and a half wine- glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled all together for ten minutes ; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a lit- tle sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce ; boiled it a few minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, removed the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served.
SOUPS.
In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is sup- posed to be made without the pot-au-feu (see No. 215), it being the na- tional dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country ; thinking it might be of service to the working classes, by showing the benefits to be derived from more frequently partaking of a hot dinner, as I have
76 soups.
previously observed, especially in a cold climate like ours. Clear light Boups are very delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy ; whilst the more substantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox-tail, peas, &c, are more in vogue, consequent to being better adapted to the million ; therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every re- ceipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.
175. Stock for all kinds of Soup. — Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon ; then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery ; put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasion- ally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the spoon ; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum ; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use when required.
The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups, and of course for thick soups or purees ; by boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing, you will be bet- tor enabled to take off every particle of grease from the sur- face. In making a stock of beef proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer ; mutton or lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used ; if beef, use seven pounds ; if mutton, eight ; or lamb, seven, of course bones and all included ; with care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little color, as required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or brown- ing, but never attempt to brown it by letting it color at the bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the osmazome.
176. Another way, more economical. — Instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only,
soups. 77
nnd leave the bacon in one piece ; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens ur »on another dish. This is as I always eat it myself ; but some persons would probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce or sharp sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time, preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over ; the remainder, if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as large pieces as possible ; and, when done, serve with a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately ; if any remaining until cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too expensive ; but in case of an abundance, which there sometimes is in the country, proceed the same as for mutton.
177. Brown Gravies. — Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan which would hold about three quarts ; have ready peeled four onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom of the stewpan ; over these lay about two pounds of beef from the leg or shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small, add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves ; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to pre- vent burning ; after which, let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze, but not burnt ; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt ; and when upon the point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the surface ; when done, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use for the following purposes : — For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or game especially ; also to give a good color to soups and sauces. This gravy will keep several days, by boiling it every other day.
78 soups.
Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or poultry.
178. Browning. — When in business, and not so much time to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following receipt, using, however, but a very few drops : put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stew- pan, which place over a slow fire ; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, tnen pour over half a pint of cold water : leave it to dissolve, and take a little for use when required.
179. Glaze is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine bourgeoise, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookeiy, however humble ; in fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble.
Make a stock as directed in No. 175, but omitting the salt, which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin ; then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as the first ; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occa- sionally and prevent its boiling over ; when reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at the corner, skimming well if required ; when reduced to a quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish-brown color ; pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where directed.
Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce ; but in that case the salt must not be omitted from the first stock, but from the second only. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat, game, or poultry will produce more or less.
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180. To clarify Stock, if required. — In case, by some acci- dent, your stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts) into a stewpan, and place it over a good fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the whites of three eggs (carefully separated from their yolks), to which add half a pint of water ; whisk well together ; then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the eggs ; then whisk the boiling stock, pouring the whites of eggs, &c., in whilst so doing, which con- tinue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it through a clean fine cloth into a basin ; this must be taken ^ a rule for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed by every person wishing to profit by this little work. These principles, once learned, would be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless reference in the perusal of these receipts ; and no persons can make themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups if the instructions recom- mended be not strictly followed. The following rule should be therefore punctually attended to.
All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must be of a light brown sherry or straw color. All white or brown thick soups should be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a spoon when hot, soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. AH purees, no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker, which may be as- certained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon. Every Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the color of pale sherry.
By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach you volumes ; for as there is a great difference in the quality of different materials (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would tend to thicken, but, if weak, actually almost turns to water by boiling), therefore your judg- ment, with the above few important remarks, will make you more per- fect than the most precise quantities of weights and measurements, upon that important point.
181. Clear Vegetable Soup. — Peel a middling-sized carrot and turnip, which cut first into slices, then into small square pieces about the size of dice ; peel also eighteen button onions ; wash the whole in cold water, and drain them upon a sieve ; when dry, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter
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and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar ; set them upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which may take rather more than the before-mentioned time ; care, however, must be taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavor of the soup would be spoiled ; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look white and unsightly ; with a little atten- tion, however, success is certain ; and, once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauce, therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it properly. When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the vegetables are' quite tender (the onions especially), carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the surface ; it will require about half an hour's simmer- ing, and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock ; taste if properly seasoned, which it ought to be with the above proportions, but use your own judgment ac- cordingly.
By following the last process correctly, the only difference to be made in those descriptions of soup is in the shape the vege- tables are cut.
182. Printaniere Soup. — Cut a small quantity of vegetables as in the last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery, leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button onions ; proceed exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the soup, with six sprigs of chervil ; in summer, a few fresh-boiled peas or French beans served in it is an improve- ment.
In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, al- ways be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and the whole of them rather small than large ; for if some pieces should be small and others large, the smaller pieces would be quite in puree, whilst the larger ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your soup not only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly